seamless knit - dimensions unfolding
Dr Jyoti Kalyanji
Textiles research fellow, Lecturer, AUT University
This work is the outcome of an investigation into 3-dimensional knitted form-building completed as part of a PhD practice. The research was positioned to explore a new mode of production arising from the radical technical innovation of seamless knit technologies, whereby complex 3-dimensional knitted forms could be fabricated in a single machined process. The resulting research demonstrates the application of knitted cloth beyond surfaces that mould and move around the body, to those that enclose 3-dimensional geometric form, further reinforcing the potential for knitted textile applications in areas such as architecture, industrial design and engineering.
The research was guided by an architectural form-building approach, using performative operatives in the systematic fabrication of 3-dimensional cubic geometries; essentially providing a physical representation of previously unrealised fabrication capability through easily decipherable objects. In doing so it begins to define an emergent design dimension underpinned by 3-dimensionality, volumetric forms and tactile surfaces. Additionally, to enable the 3-dimensional form-building capability to be accessed, understood and further explored by a broader range of design practitioners, an alternative means of engagement is established through a knitted form-building methodology. Encompassed within this are a cubic form-building system, articulation of a cubic form-building domain, textual, symbolic and visual representations and components of a 3-dimensional form library.
wHO AM I?
Jyoti Kalyanji is a design practitioner and researcher in the field of textile design with a particular interest in knitted textile fabrication. She has a PhD from Auckland University of Technology, New Zealand, where she currently works as a research fellow with the Textile and Design Lab, and as a lecturer with the School of Art and Design. Jyoti’s research explores strategies for accessing the advanced fabrication capabilities of digital seamless knitting technologies with particular interests in 3-dimensional form building and the use of technical fibres. Further extending the application of digitally knitted textiles into disciplines such as architecture and engineering is a key motivation of her research.