Seamless Knit dimensions unfolding.

An investigation of 3-Dimensional knitted form-building.

Jyoti Kalyanji

Textiles research fellow, Lecturer, AUT University 


This research investigated a dimension of the latent form-building capability of digital seamless knit technology; one underpinned by 3-dimensionality, volumetric forms and tactile surfaces. By means of a practice-led design inquiry, the research engaged in a conceptual displacement of seamless knit technology to extend knitted form beyond surfaces that mould and move around the body to those that enclose 3-dimensional geometric forms. The research was guided by an architectural form-building approach, using performative operatives in the systematic fabrication of 3-dimensional cubic geometric forms; configurations commonly referenced across domains such as architecture, industrial design and engineering. 


Through this process, a knitted form-building methodology was established. As an alternative way of thinking about knitted form, the methodology encompasses a cubic form-building system and is supported through articulation of a cubic form-building domain, including initial components for a 3-dimensional form library alongside textual, symbolic and visual representations. Tools and resources have also been developed to support the translation of 3-dimensional geometries into the 2-dimensional surfaces of the technology’s programming grid while a range of 3-dimensional cubic artefacts act as easily decipherable objects providing physical representations of previously unrealised fabrication capability. 


This research was conducted at the Textile and Design Lab, AUT University.  

The thesis can be accessed at 

PhD Awarded 2020.


Jyoti Kalyanji is a design practitioner and researcher in the field of textile design with a particular interest in knitted textile fabrication. She has a PhD from Auckland University of Technology, New Zealand, where she currently works as a research fellow with the Textile and Design Lab, and as a lecturer with the School of Art and Design. Jyoti’s research explores strategies for accessing the advanced fabrication capabilities of digital seamless knitting technologies with particular interests in 3-dimensional form building and the use of technical fibres. Further extending the application of digitally knitted textiles into disciplines such as architecture and engineering is a key motivation of her research.